My first time in Cartagena was in 2007 for a conference. The hotel, museums, tours, banquet, and entertainment were all arranged and paid for by the State Department. We had little time to explore the city by foot, as talks and meetings dominated the schedule. It was an excellent trip to a beautiful city, but I wanted to return and have more time to explore the streets and experience it from a different perspective.
When we stopped in Cartagena last month, circumstances had definitely changed. I was living on a boat at anchor after a 5-day crossing from Jamaica, and on a budget. As we rowed ashore the first morning, I was anticipating the moment when I would recognize surroundings and be able to locate myself on an old mental map of the city.
For the next two days, we walked around the entire walled city and visited almost every plaza, making sure to stop frequently to sample the outrageously delicious and inexpensive street food: shrimp ceviche, grilled cheesy arepa muffins, homemade ice cream popsicles, fresh tropical fruit salads, sno cones, and fried plantains. We walked until we had blisters, and then taped the blisters until our feet looked like mummies, then we swapped shoes until they gave us different blisters.
We met up with some Colombian friends I made during my first visit, and we caught up over a small pizza dinner. It's hard to describe how vibrant and colorful the city is. Combine scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean and South Beach Miami, and fill them with friendly, beautiful people and delicious food.
Of course, there is much much more to Colombia than the preserved and tourist-oriented Cartagena. There are diverse landscapes and cultures across the country and places where extreme poverty and armed conflict still dominate daily life. In Cartagena, it was difficult to imagine this other side, but it is important to realize that these contrasts exist.
I felt like we made the most of our time in Cartagena. I definitely hope to be back someday, and to be able to explore more of Colombia in the future. For anyone looking for historical, romantic, and relatively inexpensive vacation spot, Cartagena is a great option!