During the Panama-Galapagos crossing we had ideal wind and sea conditions and great boat speed. But this time, watching our progress on the chart plotter was different for me. As the miles ticked away, for the first time I almost found myself wishing that the boat would slow down. I was excited to make it to the Galapagos, but knew it would by my last stop as an EYE crew member aboard the William T. Piquette. We mentioned in the classroom visits last year that Adam and Alan would be sailing around the world, whereas I would be disembarking somewhere in the Pacific. It´s now time for me to say goodbye.
It seems like a long time ago that we put the final touches on the boat and backed out of the slip in Hampton on that cold, grey morning last November 2nd. A lot has changed with the boat and my relationship to her. Since we left Hampton the boat has seen the installation of a chart plotter, a radar, an AIS receiver, a life raft, reef points in the main, a working stove and oven, the anchor windlass, and a honking horn, among many other upgrades. A proper ocean cruiser.
Personally, I have gone from seeing the V-berth as a leaky supply closet to a quirky and lovable home. My view of the galley also thankfully changed; I went from being incredulous about the possibility of cooking even the simplest meal in a swell, to whipping up decently edible multi-course meal recipes while offshore, including ¨Eggplant Parmesan Dramamine¨ and Dorado Fish Curry.
Then there was the actual sailing of the boat: messing with the infinite combinations of sail trim and weather helm, controlling the wind vane with a little string, consulting the glowing compass, and typing in the chart plotter at first seemed to require the skills of a mad physicist, a puppeteer, a fortune teller, and a computer nerd respectively. I gradually developed a knowledge of the boat´s likes and dislikes. Especially when at the wheel going upwind, I began to feel almost like part of the steering assembly.
Then there was the unprecedented amount of personal contact that I could expect with the other crew members. How on earth was I going to be able to put up with Adam, Alan, and Will for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week? In short, it´s hard to describe the amount of trust and loyalty that is formed by perpetually close quarters and conditions that ranged from picturesque and fun to painful and intimidating. It was a chance to get to know extremely competent sailors and lifelong friends.
The trip was also full of memorable experiences and I´m already mentally replaying some of the highlights: the bio-luminescent dolphins jumping in our bow wake, busking in Charleston, barefoot beisbol with the kids in the D.R., bartering and grilling in the San Blas, the Panama Canal transits, watching sea lions surf in the Galapagos, catching that sailfish last week. Even some of the character building moments are already funny in retrospect: eating and hitting my head twice over the course of a 72-hour seasickness marathon in 8-foot seas during our Caribbean crossing, falling off a Haitian trash boat in the Turks & Caicos, getting comically ill in Jamaica. Overall, I feel very lucky.
In a way, Galapagos seems like an appropriate last stop. I lived in Ecuador and explored a good bit of the mainland, but said that I would save Galapagos for a future trip. I never would have imagined that I would return in a sailboat from Virginia. Aside from one night on another boat in Charleston, S.C., and a few days traveling in the D.R. and Panama, I have slept every night on board since our departure. I saw the detailed texture of the places in between airports and highways and witnessed the climate, terrain, and culture gradually change from the familiar to the unknown.
Now I will get in an airplane and in a matter of hours, roughly retrace the steps of a journey that took us 5 and a half months to complete. I know it will be an adjustment to trade brushing my teeth over the rail, scruffy beards, salty clothes, midnight watches, exotic foods, and logistics surprises, for the 8-5 work life on dry land. I will miss the adventure.
My next stops are Quito, Ecuador to visit friends and St. Louis, Missouri, to visit my family. Then back to my job in Washington, D.C. this spring and a summer internship in Connecticut before moving to London, U.K. in the fall to start a Masters program. I´m looking forward to unlimited ice cream access, a bath tub, a washing machine, a large and stationary bbq grill, the World Cup this summer, and most of all seeing my friends and family. If you would like to stay in touch, feel free to email crew@eyeotw.org for my contact info.
It has been a pleasure to, as one student put it, ¨teach us things that you learn also.¨ Seeing students´ growing knowledge has been very rewarding, from your well thought-out questions during classroom visits and web conferences, to the encouraging letters and emails and that you send us. Knowing that there are students out there who are interested and engaged was a source of inspiration for us. I hope this trip has been and continues to be as educational and exciting for you as it has been for me.
Thank you students, teachers, supporters, family, and friends for following the adventure and making this experience of a lifetime possible.
Trevor, over and out.