Thursday, January 28, 2010

Provisioning in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic

Last Friday was a big day; we provisioned dry goods for the first time since leaving the US. Stopping in the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos, we were aware that food prices would be high. These countries are mostly small islands, with little arable land or industry. The Dominican Republic has rich soil and enough population and export markets to support a food production industry.

So I took a trip to downtown Puerto Plata to scope out the food situation. This included stopping by a couple of restaurants and sampling local dishes- just to make sure the ingredients were satisfactory. They passed. Next, I asked around about grocery store prices and quality. I narrowed it down to Supermercado Tropical vs. La Sirena. I was told that Tropical had better prices and selection for canned goods and dry items, whereas La Sirena was the place for meats and vegetables. Since we were planning on stopping in Luperon and we were mainly in the market for nonperishable items it became advantage Tropical. Tropical also ran a free pickup truck shuttle to the marina where we were docked. The decision was made.

I had a working list of foods that we were running out of, as well as new items that would be good to have. I translated the list into Spanish (and looked up how to say a few things, like Baking Soda and Pancake Syrup). We took the shuttle to the store, stopping along the way to eat some charcoal roasted chicken with fried sweet potatoes (don't shop when you're hungry, no no no!).

We targeted domestically-produced items when possible, as they were far less expensive than the same item produced in the US. Here's some of what we bought: chick peas, corn flakes, black beans, green olives, soy sauce, vanilla extract, cake mix, pasta, chicken bouillon cubes, mayonnaise, fruit cocktail, raisins, prunes, canned pears, flour, peanuts, rice, pancake syrup, olive oil, salad dressing, bread crumbs, raisin bran, granulated sugar, brown sugar, granola bars, a box of milk, vegetable oil, cocoa, bread, arepas, margarine, balsamic vinegar, cheddar cheese, honey, pancake syrup, baking soda and an oven mitt.

The bill came to RD$ 4,163, which was about US $113. Not bad! The next step will be to load up on fruits and vegetables before going offshore towards the Windward Passage between Haiti and Cuba- neither of which will be stops for us. No more stores until Jamaica.

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Saturday, January 16, 2010

Port vs. Starboard Tack

Much like at your house, our living conditions and recommended activities vary greatly by the angle and direction of the lean of our home. Port tack is a point of sail when the wind comes over the left side of the boat. On port tack, the wind pushes the sails from that side and the boat leans (heels) over to starboard. Starboard tack is the opposite.

Life aboard the WTP changes when we have a large amount of heel (as is usually the case when we are sailing upwind), and conditions below deck can become interesting. We have come up with a list of the advantages of leaning to the right on port tack versus leaning to the left on starboard tack. This list can also be read as a list of disadvantages of being on the opposite tack, but we like to think of the glass as being half full.

Advantages of Port Tack (Heeling to Starboard):

+Cooking is easier- you are pushed up against the galley instead backwards onto the table.

+Sleeping in the V-berth (Me), and starboard side quarter berth (Alan). We are pushed up against the hull, instead of rolling out of bed.

+Sleeping in the port side quarter berth (Adam). Adam sleeps with his guitar case and says that the dynamic is less complicated on port tack.

+Using the main navigation compass. There is a little yellow stick on the starboard side of the compass which lets you sit on the windward side of the cockpit and still accurately read your magnetic heading.

+The depth sensor for our fish finder is mounted on the port side of the boat, which means that we get deeper depth readings when we are heeled to starboard. We do the mental math to account for this, but for some reason it's more comforting to read 10 feet than 7 feet. I think it's kind of like setting your alarm clock fast.

+Accessing cans of food is easier (they don't fly out of their cabinets).

+We seem to catch more fish on port tack. Probably just chance, but worth a mention.

+Climbing up the ladder to get on deck is easier.

+Variety. At a calm anchorage or dock, we naturally list a little to port.

Advantages of Starboard Tack (Heeling to Port):

+Sitting on the setee (dining room table couch). The food hammocks are not leaning over your head.

+Using the head (bathroom). This one is hard to over-emphasize.
Being able to pump water into the toilet and not have to worry as much about chaotic overflow is huge. Adrenaline rushes are best left out of the bathroom.

+Being on starboard tack gives you right-of-way over other sailing vessels that are on port tack. This was a key consideration in college dinghy racing and continues to be important for big boats.

+The window leak in the V-berth runs the seawater onto the stored sails, instead of my bed and clothes. Another big up to starboard tack, but hopefully this problem will be rectified soon and will cease to be a factor (more on this in a future post).

+The galley sink does not fill with water when the seacock is open.

+The chart plotter is easier to see.

Adam and Alan prefer port tack; I think at this point it's still a toss-up. We all agree that a fairly even keel is ideal.

PS- Please pardon my terrible handwriting and simplified picture of the boat. I was wrong when I thought I would never have to reveal my penmanship when using a blog. Also, we were at a wavy anchorage when I drew it.

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Thursday, January 7, 2010

Provisioning in Nassau, Bahamas

It was our last day in Nassau and time to provision the boat with food. We knew we would be stopping in a couple of towns in the Bahamas and in the Turks and Caicos, but Nassau would have the lowest prices until we reached the Dominican Republic.

What to buy? Delicious, inexpensive foods that would store well, provide us with protein, carbohydrates, and other nutrients, and that would not require refrigeration. We filled 2 large backpacks and 2 canvass bags with $80 worth of the food that you see in the picture. Some highlights: sweet potatoes, grits, pineapple upside down cake mix, celery, roma tomatoes, discounted "fresh" spinach leaves, raisin bran, and Colby cheese.

The grocery store was just like being in the US- from the products to the pop music playing on the speakers. It was a positive experience, especially because I found some coconut yogurt to eat while we shopped. But I am definitely looking forward to interesting new ingredients and lower prices once we hit the Dominican Republic. Como se dicen passion fruit, grilled lobster tail, y delicious horizontally-sliced smashed fried plantain coins?
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The Gulf Stream

We crossed the Gulf Stream between Miami and the Bahamas. It was a very memorable experience.

The gulf stream is a warm Atlantic current that runs north from the gulf of Mexico past the strait of Florida, and continues northward all the way to Northern Europe. Where we crossed, the current was around 3.5 knots (nautical miles per hour), and the wind was around 15 knots out of the north. We could tell once we had entered the stream because: (1) we knew about how many miles offshore it was flowing, (2) The GPS magnetic heading readings from our electronic chart plotter were about 15 degrees different than the heading on our compass, and (3) the wave and swell pattern was all crazy, making the boat jolt around as unpredictably as an untamed bronco boat.

At the end of my 5:00 to 8:00 AM shift, I went below to find that I had a leaky roof in my beloved V-Berth: seawater had infiltrated my bed and clothes! As I cleaned up, the confused motion of the Gulf Stream combined with the opposing wind made feel truly seasick for the first time in my life. I stumbled back above deck for a breath of fresh air, ate some prunes to cheer up, and lay down in the port side quarter berth next to Adam's guitar. I had an important conversation with my inner ear and fell asleep for 3 hours.

The next day we arrived in Great Harbor, Bahamas on a beautiful sunny day, with accessible laundry and shower facilities at the marina. The passage was over!
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